Thursday 16 January 2014

The Foodfather - Kulsoom Hisam

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I will make you a dish you can't refuse
The aroma of biryani in the air, the sound of plates clinking as the waiter serves mouthwatering platters to customers with great precision and excellence. The clang of ice as it hits the glasses filled with soft drinks, the ultimate dive into the delicious food while the devourer fears committing the crime of gluttony, feeling like Hannibal Lecter yet knowing that at that time, everything is perfect, despite the fact that Pakistan has numerous security issues and the media and newspapers are overflowing with gruesome photographs and heart wrenching stories of murders, revolts and mutiny. At that time, he is happy… until someone takes a bite from his bowl.




The food business is probably one of the few businesses that is highly successful in Pakistan.Every business has an enemy/haters who charge successful tycoons and big-time operators with fraud and corruption. But food? Not at all. After a tiring day of work in the office or in school,a smile lights up on the faces of men, women and children as they pass by a food street that invites them with a delicious aroma of Desi food and they decide to have a nice hot plate of nihari.

A famous food street in Karachi is Burns Road (read: Buns Road, the typical Desi style) which
is renowned for its traditional food offerings such as Biryani, Karahi, Dhaga Kabab, Fry Kabab,Nihari, Bun Kabab, Haleem and fried finger fish. Sweet specialties include Kheer, Rabri, Ras Malai, Ras Gulay, Lassi, Dahi Bara and Halwa Puri. Regardless of the fact that Burns Road is considered a highly polluted, unclean area, the mindset of Pakistanis to ignore the dirt and filth and joyfully have a plate of nihari with naan is miraculously striking. Clearly, man’s love for food trumps his fear of ill health and acts as a revulsion from eating in a polluted street where stray cats and dogs walk by and beggars plead for food. A Pakistani’s audacity, decisiveness and steadfastness, along with their passion for food should never be underestimated.

In addition to Burns Road, Ghaffar kai kabab are probably the most loved and delicious kababs ever. Karachiites are seen to plunge into the Malai Boti, Reshmi Kabab, Chicken Tikka and other specialties of Abdul Ghaffar. Available near Tariq Road and Port Grand - another one of Karachi’s most recent and popular foodstreets. Abdul Ghaffar Kabab House has a flourishing business. When all fails, you can always become a kababchi. Cook good food, and people will love you.Other than desi food, Pakistan houses many restaurants with all kinds of food ranging from Pakistani to American to Chinese to Thai to Lebanese and the list goes on. In the posh areas of Defence and Clifton, numerous fancy restaurants and cafes are present and many are springing up. Ginsoy, a Chinese restaurant on Khayaban-e-Shehbaz in Defence is a fine example of a lavish diner with tantalizing food (Remember to order Crispy Beijing Beef and Cherry Chilli Chicken). Abaan, a Lebanese Restaurant on Khayaban-e-Jami, also Defence, houses some of the most delectable and
mouthwatering Lebanese dishes such as Shawarma, Hummus, etc.Cafes such as Espresso, Café Zouk and Café Le Grand are famous attractions for the youth.Stalls filled with Gol Gappay, Makkai, Aloo Chaat and Gola Ganda are among the favourites of the locals. Desi bistros like Sweet and Sour and Chatkharay contain all the spicy, zesty snacks. (If you’re looking for a good Shwarma, Sweet and Sour is your place).

Who can overlook the passionate spirit of rozaidaars as they prepare for Iftari and Sehri in the Holy month of Ramadan? From Aloo Samosas, to rolls, Pakorai, Dahi Barai, to lip-smacking and appetizing Sehri. Midnight deals at Pizza Hut and other fast-food joints. We thank them for making us wake up at 4am in the morning with ease or someone would be spurting brains out with a .44 Magnum like Clint Eastwood from Dirty Harry.At fancy parties or grand wedding ceremonies, the food is impeccable. People of all sizes and ages, be it a woman dressed in a fancy gharaara who takes hours to set her hair promising herself not to eat much for the sake of her clothes but waits impatiently, be it a man who starved himself the whole day just to eat a lot at the wedding. Food is one thing, probably the only thing at a shaadi (filled with old gossipmongers and rishta-mongers), men and women look forward to. Even Rishta aunties forget targeting poor teens who try to ward off their hawk-like eyes by pushing them in line for food with great valor and spirit.
Note to self: When conducting a seminar or dars, be sure to add a list of refreshments on the invitation cards. A large horde of foodies will arrive at your doorstep, making your gathering a success.

Long live all the zealous and hungry Pakistanis!

Written by Kulsoom Hisam

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